THE EYO MASQUERADE FESTIVAL

THE EYO MASQUERADE FESTIVAL
(From my Nigerian Diary: 16 Dec. 78)

Today is the beginning of Christmas season way back home. It will be announced by the peeling of church bells and the marching of brass bands around town to start the nine days “misa de aguinaldo” or 9 days dawn masses. I’ll surely miss it but here in Lagos Island, Nigeria in Africa another thing is going on right before my eyes. The EYO Masquerade Festival.

This used to be an annual festival called the ADAMO ORISHA PLAY
in memory of the late chief AMODO TIJANI OLUWA. This is a traditional honor to the worthy departed citizens of Lagos, Nigeria but lately it is being celebrated only once every three or four year s since there was an incident of tragic death resulting from the beatings incurred in connection with the ritual.

From random interviews that I conducted and from personal observations, I was able to fish out some stories about the festival. I was on duty last night and from the windows of Massey Street Children’s Hospital I keenly observed the activities that went on.

ASDAMA ORISHA, the Premier Eyo celebration is supposed to leave the tradition AGODO by 6:am for the OBA’s Palace to pay homage there but as early as 11:00 p.m. last night groups of young boys were already noisily walking down Massey Street with sticks about as big as a regular coconut stalk. They were all preparing for the festival. It seems that they didn’t sleep last night at all for I could hear the marching, the chunking and the shouting till I got out of bed at 4:00 a.m.

I was greatly fascinated when I saw them coming out from all corners dressed in immaculate white from head to foot with hats like the ones used by cowboys, covered by thin, soft-flowing veils in order to hide their faces. They were all carrying big sticks that they used in beating passers-by. Some beatings are friendly but others really hurt .

Someone told me that they were supposed to beat or whip only those who are wearing shoes and hats but another say it is the other way around, meaning those who are not wearing shoes and hats. A lady reminded me not to smoke as they would beat me even inside the ambulance if they see me. I haven’t talk to any true authority on the matter but I saw several people barefooted while holding their shoes.

I was scared when someone from a moving taxi shouted “Doctor, go far away quickly”. Whoever he was must have been my patient and wanted to protect me from harm. Every now and then when the Ambulance slowed down they will surround us while shouting words and pointing their sticks to my face as if ready to break the window glass of the ambulance.

In fairness, in big groups the EYOS are a sight to behold. They look like a mob of Virgin Marries with St. Joseph’s sticks. I noticed two pictures on their hats. One is that of the Festival President while the other one is that of Lagos’ Chief according to Dyango, the ambulance driver who continuously provides me with information along the way.

Their uniforms costs 50 Naira each and some has as many as four pieces because the moment the uniform gathers dirt the participant has to change as he has to appear pure and clean during the day.

I was told that no less than 20 Chieftaincy families are participating. I wish I could take pictures and make more observations but for fear of being beaten accidentally or purposely by them I decided to stay at the Hotel and wait for news items the following day..

Surprisingly not even a line was written on the news about the Big Eyo Festival the following day.

At Casualty Hospital alone, 2 persons were bought in dead as a result of severe beatings, two had their hands amputated and around 30 are seriously affected, all victims of EYO beaters.

At Massey Street even children and pregnant women were beaten as well as nurses crossing the street from the out-patient to the in-patient department .